The Subtler Side of Japan: Three Journeys Beyond Tokyo and Kyoto
Most people do Japan the same way: Tokyo and Kyoto, maybe a glimpse of Mount Fuji. Those highlights are wonderful, and for a first trip they are hard to beat. But if you have already traveled that route, or you like to get ahead of the crowd, it is worth trading the guidebook checklist for something quieter and more soulful. Here are three ways to experience the subtler side of Japan.
An immersive art pilgrimage
A cluster of small islands in the Seto Inland Sea has quietly become one of the world’s most compelling art destinations, where daring contemporary installations sit beside historic fishing villages, ancient shrines, and serene rural landscapes. Three islands are worth your time.
Naoshima. The Tadao Ando-designed Naoshima New Museum of Art showcases major works from across Asia and complements the semi-underground Chichu Art Museum, where natural light shifts the art throughout the day. At Benesse House you can sleep among pieces by Andy Warhol and David Hockney, while the Art House Project turns once-abandoned homes into immersive installations.
Teshima. Architect Ryue Nishizawa and artist Rei Naito created the Teshima Art Museum, a concrete structure shaped like a raindrop meeting the ground. Rather than displaying art, it invites you to tune into wind, light, and water.
Inujima. Small but striking, this island reimagines former industrial sites as contemporary art spaces, anchored by the Seirensho Art Museum.
Hot-spring serenity
For deep rest, head to Japan’s onsen country. In the shadow of Mount Fuji, the design-forward Gora Kadan Fuji is a Relais & Chateaux retreat set within a forested expanse, the sister property to the original Gora Kadan Hakone, the ryokan that put Japanese inns on the international map. And if you would rather skip Hakone’s crowds, Karuizawa is a small hot-springs resort town that makes a perfect alternative.
Powder days and polished nights
Skiers love the snow-capped volcanic peaks of Hokkaido for their light, dry, consistent powder. In recent years Niseko has seen a boom of luxury hideaways, including Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono, with ski-in, ski-out access and private onsens overlooking the slopes; Setsu Niseko, named Japan’s best ski hotel at the 2025 World Ski Awards; Muwa Niseko, with sleek apartment-style stays steps from the lifts; and the design-forward Nikko Style Niseko Hanazono near the base area.
What’s your next destination?
Whether one of these calls to you or you have a passion of your own to pursue, this is exactly the kind of trip I love to design. Let’s talk about where restoration takes you next.
